Carnival in Malta
What is Carnival? Held in the days before Lent - in earlier times, the period of fasting in the run-up to Easter - carnival has mysterious origins. The name probably derived from the Italian word "carne" meaning meat, and "levare", translated as "to take away". In this case, carnival would have signified a time to go without meat and other good things! But, it may be interpreted as the exact opposite, because the Italian word "vale" means that something is "permissible". Carnival would then have been an excuse to eat, drink and be merry before the fasting began! Whatever its origins, carnival today in Malta is a week of lively activity; a time to join in street processions and enjoy the company of neighbours and friends outdoors again after the winter. In a sense, carnival time is the first rite of spring. Carnivals of yesteryear... The first documentary evidence of carnival in Malta dates back to the time of the Knights of St John in around 1535. Throughout the rule of the Order, carnival in Malta had rather a chequered history. Some Grand Masters let Carnival take on the ribaldry for which it is famous today, while others, of a stricter religions leaning, regulated it, preferring less rowdy behaviour.
In fact, in 1535, Grand Master Pierino del Ponte was outraged by the participation of the knights in such carnival activities as jousting and fencing. He felt that as members of a religious order, the Knights should not be involved in the festivities of the locals. The tradition of wearing masks may heave started around this time as knights tried to disguise their participation in the events. A century later, another Grand Master took further steps to limit the revelry by prohibiting, females from wearing masks and preventing carnival balls being organised in the auberge (palaces) of the various langues (nationalities) of the Knights. Despite attempts to put a stop to the increasing anarchy of the festivities, Maltese carnival developed a host of games and events, which became part and parcel of carnival tradition by the 19th century. Challenge Competitions tested the strength and prowess of the young local men, while the nobility adopted a taste for carnival balls - the most renown being held in the splendour of the Manoel Theatre in the old Valletta. The ball seems to have developed later into the popular national dance, the Maltija. And the festival today... Carnival today may be a more organised event, but it has not lost any of its spontaneity and energy of carnivals past. Two main carnival processions take place: one in Valletta; the other in Nadur, a small village in Gozo where the festivities are renown for their sometimes-darker overtones. By the 20th century, carnival was organised by the British Governors of the islands. The Valletta carnival became the preserve of the upper classes, while Nadur was venue for the festivities of the lower classes. Today, the distinction no longer exists - many Maltese, and tourists, often spend the weekend in Gozo specially to take part at Nadur, while everyone enjoys the Valletta processions.
Preparing for carnival is a serious business; a national committee organises the route and timing of the festivities. Today, many villages also hold their own events, carnival costume competitions and processions, drawing an even larger audience to the festivities. But the hub of the organised activities is in Malta's capital Valletta, in Freedom Square, where a stage and seating are specially erected for open-air performances of dance, drama and song. In Gozo, Main Square in Victoria (Rabat) is the scene of the scheduled events. These two squares provide the venue the all-important "judging" of the competition floats and costumes. So wherever you are on the islands, you are likely to come across some sort of carnival activity following the traditional pattern: processions of floats, children in fancy dress and adults in papier mache masks depicting funny and grotesque figures. Processions are typified by cleverly designed, humorous 'theme' floats, Maltese horsedrawn carriages (Karrozzin) brightly festooned, band marches and an array of followers wearing homemade costumes. Different band clubs from the same village will often compete just to add spice to the event. And, of course, with carnival being the time to feast and make merry before the austerity of Lent, you would expect Malta to have its very own festive fare! It would be hard to miss the Maltese carnival cake, the Prinjolata. Around carnival time, this enormous white dome of sponge, cream, mixed with chopped peel and almonds standards in pride of place on bars in cafes and patisseries Don't be overwhelmed by its richness and size - you can ask to taste it by the slice! Lining the carnival procession route, you'll find street vendors selling all sorts of festive confectionery - the traditional carnival sweets are Perlini or small white, almonds. Come join the festivities! While carnival is common in many Mediterranean countries, the festivities in Malta have some unusual characteristics and travelling around Malta and Gozo at carnival time, you are bound at some time to find yourself swept up in a swirling crowd decked out in elaborate masks. One thing is certain at carnival in Malta, to quote again from tradition, ogni scherzo vale.. anything is possible! |
Carnival
today in Malta is the same boisterous excuse for revelry
that it has been for centuries. It certainly shows no
sign of becoming a dying tradition among the many festas,
events and ceremonies that colour a visit to the Maltese
islands.
